Coastal dynamics

Lecturers: Alexander Bartholomä, Dierk Hebbeln


- Introduction to Coastal Dynamics: purposes and aims
- Preparation of survey reports
- Multibeam bathymetric surveys
- Side-scan sonar surveys
- Acoustic seabed classification
- Sub-bottom profiling: boomer surveys
- Current measurements: ADCP surveys
- Sampling methods and procedures
- Environmental survey with RV “Senckenberg” in Jade Bay
- Post-processing, evaluation and report compilation


The course focuses on processes-response mechanisms responsible for the generation, maintenance and dynamics of typical coastal and nearshore depositional systems, including modern methods of data collection, quantitative data evaluation and visualization.


The participants in the course prepare a comprehensive survey report on the basis of the data. This report is evaluated by the lecturers and notes are given for both communal and individual chapters. The final note is the average of the communal and individual notes.

Exam Form:



ALLEN, J.R.L. 1985. Principles of Physical Sedimentology. George Allen & Unwin, London, 272 pp. - ALLEN, P.A. 1997. Earth Surface Processes. Blackwell Science, Oxford, 404 pp. - BEARMAN, G. (ed.) 1989. Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes. The Open University Oceanography Course. Pergamon Press, Oxford, 187 pp. - CARTER, R.W.G. & WOODROFFE, C.D. (eds) 1994. Coastal Evolution: Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 517 pp. - HARDISTY, J. 1990. Beaches: Form & Process. Unwin Hyman, London, 324. - DYER, K.R. 1986. Coastal and Estuarine Sediment Dynamics. John Wiley & Sons, Chichester, 342 pp. - HASLETT, S.K. 2000. Coastal Systems. Routledge, London, 218 pp. - HORIKAWA, K. 1988. Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Processes: Theory, Measurement, and Predictive Models. University of Tokyo Press, Tokyo, 522 pp. - KOMAR, P.D. (ed.) 1983. Handbook of Coastal processes and Erosion. CRC Press, Boca Raton, 305 pp. - KOMAR, P.D. 1998. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. 2nd edition. Prentice Hall, New Jersey, 544 pp. - MASSEL, S.R. 1989. Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones. Elsevier Science, Amsterdam, 336 pp. - MASSELINK, G. & HUGHES, M.G. 2003. Introduction to Coastal Processes & Geomorphology. Hodder Arnold, London, 354 pp. - SEYMOUR, R.J. (ed.) 1989. Nearshore Sediment Transport. Plenum Press, New York. - SHORT, A.D. (ed) 1999. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. John Wiley & Sons, Chichester, 379 pp. - SCHWARTZ, M.L. 2004. Encyclopedia of Coastal Science. Springer, Heidelberg, 1000 pp. - SLEATH, J.F.A. 1984. Sea Bed Mechanics. John Wiley & Sons, New York, 335 pp. - SOULSBY, R. 1997. Dynamics of Marine Sands: a Manual for Practical Applications. Thomas Telford Publications, London, 249 pp. - VAN RIJN, L.C. 1993. Principles of Sediment Transport in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas. Aqua Publications, Amsterdam. - WOODROFFE, C.D. 2003. Coasts – Form, process and evolution. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 623 pp. - WRIGHT, L.D. 1995. Morphodynamics of Inner Continental Shelves. CRC Press (Boca Raton), 241 pp.


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